With 12 kms of pretty much constant scrambling, the Cuillin Ridge Traverse on the Isle of Skye will be a test for even the most experienced mountaineer – and there’s no guarantee you’ll pass with full marks, as Jenny promptly realised…
In early June myself and my boyfriend set out – nervous and excited – to Glen Brittle campsite on Skye to tackle the iconic Cuillin Ridge. As we camped that evening, the Cuillins towered over us silently. Big, dark, daunting – a looming reminder of the adventures and challenges soon to come.
If you don’t already know, the Black Cuillins are a dramatic mountain range on Scotland‘s Isle of Skye, 12 km long and consisting of 11 Munros, with the jagged Gabbro Rock having attracted climbers, walkers and scramblers for years.
The Cuillin Ridge traverse is an epic, yet attainable challenge for any one with good fitness, ropework and navigation knowledge. Travelling the entire length of the ridge making up the Black Cuillins, is an iconic challenge pretty much on every mountaineer’s bucket list. Especially if you’re a ‘Munro bagger‘.
Our original plan was to rather optimistically complete the ridge in only a day(!). That would give us one day on Skye for a recce on the ridge, a day for the actual traverse, and a few days afterwards for exploring the island.
Both being runners and with a fairly reasonable amount of mountain leader experience between us, we thought that it would be tough, but absolutely doable.
It turns out that the mountains always have a greater plan, and will not hesitate to utterly humble you.
Here’s my experience of traversing Cuillin Ridge, so you can learn how not to do it…
Day 1 – The Recce (?)
Waking up to the sound of rain pounding, and our tent shrouded in a thick Scottish mist, we pulled on our waterproofs and bravely headed off regardless. Today we planned to stick with our plan of having a ‘little recce’ to the start of the ridge.
Returning to the campsite ten hours later, hungry and beyond knackered, I wondered whether we could still call it that.
The conditions weren’t at all ideal. The difficult rugged terrain made wet by the rain already made navigation challenging. Then layer in the slightly magnetic rock that inhibited the use of a compass and the extremely limited visibility… Let’s just say there was much faffing, discussing and bickering.
Progress was slow. But with no pressing time restraint, there was no pressure to do anything other than get our bearings, and afterall and most importantly, we were having fun!
We saw no one else on the ridge that misty day, which made the mountains seem even more magical.
Miraculously, somewhere after Sgurr na Banachdaich, the clag suddenly cleared and we were left with the spectacular view of the jagged ridgeline leading across to the dramatic looking tooth that is Inaccessible Pinnacle.
Only accessed by a graded rock climb and left by a 20 metre abseil, understandably this summit is one of the more memorable munros in Scotland. Despite its popularity, we met nobody on this section, making it an experience that will remain with me for a very long time.
A long and gruelling descent finished off a quality day in the mountains and offered a fab glimpse at what Skye has to offer. Now to rest and prepare for the main part of the adventure tomorrow…
Day 2 – An Unplanned ‘Rest’ Day
Our late finish yesterday meant our scheduled food shop and kit preparation time had been missed. We had no other choice – we had to push back the traverse by a day than we originally planned.
Today we bought provisions, packed our bags, recovered from the unplanned extended recce the following day and explored Skye.
However, after the chores were done and in between some serious brunching, wild swimming and sightseeing around Skye’s biggest town, Portree, the plan of heading up on to the ridge that evening was somehow formed.
Our reasoning? This plan would give us a mini head start, and provide the opportunity to spend the night bivvying on the ridge.
The weather on our second day was perfect and so unlike the day before: clear and beautifully sunny. Setting off in the cool summer evening, excitement brimmed. With each step I took, I was filled with contentment and inspired by the wonder around me.
Once up on the ridge, we dumped our bags for a quick three mile out-and-back to Sgurr nan Eag and Gars-bheinn, and as the sun set, we set up our very low-tech bivvy spot; essentially just a little flat patch on the ridge surrounded by a mini wall of rocks.
That night spent sleeping in the open air, with no suffocating tent over our heads, was another unforgettable experience.
Being in the peak of summer and so far north, the sun simply never fully set. Everytime I opened my eyes in the night, I would catch a glimpse of the dramatic and spectacular ridge view, in an ethereal glowing haze.
Day 3 – The Attempt
Finally – it was time.
But shortly after setting off in the early hours of the morning, we encountered our first challenge – and one we did not anticipate. We realised that our current supply of water would not take us to the next water source. A detour had to be made back down to the bowl, losing us precious time.
Finally, once restocked with water, the next thing we soon realised was that it was going to get unusually hot. 35 degrees celsius hot.
With no clouds to hide the sun’s powerful rays, and the heat radiating off the rock, the ascents were more gruelling than expected.
In the blazing heat we walked, scrambled and climbed. Making our way along the ridge, we were conscious to keep moving and make our movements as slick and effortless as possible. The constant 360 views of sea, mountains and of course the continuous rugged ridge that stretched out before us massively helped morale.
Reaching Inaccessible Pinnacle for the second time on this trip, it immediately became clear that it would not be the serene and magical experience it was the time before.
Caught in what I would call a ‘sandwich of mountain guides’, the climb was slow, extremely crowded, chaotic and slightly stressful. Particularly when one of the guide’s clients accidentally pulled out one of my pieces of climbing gear!!
It was around here when my boyfriend said what we had both been thinking: “I don’t think we are going to finish the ridge today”.
He was right. Time had been ticking on and we weren’t even half way yet, having been slowed down by our water detour and the mountain traffic jam.
We also began suffering the effects of heat and dehydration. We had to get down to shade and water ASAP.
Although disappointed, we both agreed to try again tomorrow. The invisible blanket of stress at keeping at such a strict time restraint was instantly lifted.
A Disheartening Decision
That night, as we sat over a pub meal and the statistics were laid out, we realised that finishing the ridge the next day would be too much of a mission.
The walk in and out, in addition to the unknown terrain, heat, and now increased distance made for quite an epic day. It was likely that we would leave the ridge again, even more unsatisfied and disappointed.
Leaving the ridge half finished was a frustrating decision, but on reflection, it offered an important lesson: the mountains will always be more powerful than you. Countless horror stories strongly suggest you should work with them rather than against them.
A quote I like from Nan Shepards book ‘The Living Mountain’ started to resonate with me a bit more after this trip:
“Yet often the mountain gives itself most completely when I have no destination, when I reach nowhere in particular, but have gone out merely to be with the mountain as one visits a friend with no intention but to be with him.”
Goals don’t always have to be crushed for a quality day in the mountains, and sometimes taking it slow and taking in what you can, is equally rewarding.
Despite not completing the ridge, I had an incredible time on Skye. And believe me, I’ll be back for more and perhaps to tackle the Cuillin Ridge Traverse again, this time a little more wiser – and a lot more prepared.
My Tips for Tackling the Cuillin Ridge Traverse:
- Don’t feel the need to rush, taking two or more days to complete the ridge offers an amazing adventure and the opportunity to spend a night on the Black Cuillins.
- The more water you can carry the better; and take every opportunity to refill on route!
- Carry plenty of snacks to sustain you – you really need them.
- Don’t wear your most prized trail/ approach shoes – the sharp rocks will shred them (I found out the hard way). However good shoes for the terrain are essential.
- Spontaneous wild swims along the way are an excellent way to rest and recover if you’re brave – bring a swimsuit and a light quick-dry towel.
- Always check weather conditions before and during the hike. Be prepared to turn around, like we did, when things don’t go your way, or if the weather turns for the worse.
All images copyright of Jenny Coatsworth.
This was great fun to read. I’m only a beginner-level mountaineer, but this Ridge certainly has been on my radar for some time, once I will have learned a few skills. Totally agree with the sentiment that a fun day out in the mountains doesn’t mean you must have reached your initial goal.