There are not many places in the world – or indeed in the UK – where you can pitch a tent wherever you like in nature. But in Scotland, and in particular the Cairngorms, it’s not only legal, it’s a freeing adventure to be had by anyone and everyone. Here Victoria recounts her first wild camping experience in the Cairngorms, the UK’s largest national park, and calls to safeguard it for generations to come.
Leaving the city behind is a strange feeling after having spent the past six months confined there.
Aberdeen may not be the prettiest place in Scotland, but I grew fond of it over time, finding myself looking forward to each semester of studying. Even after spending time in beautiful London, Aberdeen had caught my heart and made me fall in love with the north.
But my extended weekend wasn’t about books, essays or my upcoming exams. It was about disconnecting from the outside world and carrying everything I need for the coming days on my back, whilst freely roaming the Cairngorms.
It’s early May, which means spring is in full swing and slowly melting into summer. Technically the weather should be warm and sunny, but if you know anything about Scotland, you know that you’ll seldom get what you expect here. At least when it comes to the seasons.
It’s currently raining and it’s very windy, so the rain isn’t coming from up above but instead being pelted into our faces horizontally.
When we got onto the bus back in the city, it was sunny and almost warm enough to take off our jackets. Now, only about an hour and a half later, it looks like a storm is rolling in.
Luckily, Aberdeen is usually so windy that any rain clouds are blown away just as quickly as they appear.
Well, usually anyway. Today it looks like the rain is perhaps staying with us for a while. We best embrace it.
About the Cairngorms
Nestled in the heart of Scotland, the Cairngorms National Park is a playground for adventurers and peace-seekers alike. It’s where majestic mountains meet ancient forests, inviting everyone from avid hikers to those who simply enjoy a good cup of tea with a view.
Picture yourself wandering through whispering pines, spotting wildlife during a tranquil canoe ride, or maybe just basking in the glory of a Scottish sunset from a cosy, fire-warmed pub.
The Cairngorms are a reminder that whether you’re scaling the heights or admiring them from the comfort of a picnic blanket, the great outdoors is a place where the wild meets the whimsical, offering endless adventures for those willing to wander.
The Appeal of Wild camping in Scotland
Wild camping in Scotland is an adventure that embraces the rugged beauty of the great outdoors with a pinch of Scottish freedom.
Thanks to the country’s right-to-roam laws, you can pitch your tent anywhere in the midst of breathtaking landscapes, from the misty lochs to the rolling Highlands, as long as you follow the leave-no-trace principles.
Imagine waking up to the sound of a babbling brook or the sight of deer grazing nearby. Spend your days exploring ancient forests, climbing majestic peaks, or simply soaking in the tranquillity of untouched nature. With some questionable weather to accompany your adventures, of course.
As the sun sets, gather around a small campfire (where permitted) under a blanket of stars, sharing stories or enjoying the peaceful solitude.
Wild camping in Scotland isn’t just about finding a spot to sleep; it’s about connecting with nature, respecting the environment, and experiencing a sense of freedom and adventure that’s hard to find anywhere else.
Just remember to pack your midge repellent! The insects in these parts definitely love any wild campers that wander into the woods.
Entering the Cairngorms
Fast forward 24 hours, and I’m walking through thick undergrowth, trailing along the shores of a small loch. It stopped raining last night, just in time for us to set up our tents and sit under the stars until the mosquitoes got too much to bear, and we retreated into our tiny popup tents.
When you have to carry all of your supplies, you quickly forget about comfort and prioritise practicality instead. Anything I packed was chosen for one purpose: it was light and absolutely necessary.
The night was uneventful, although a bit spooky. Of course, logic tells me that Scotland isn’t home to any dangerous animals. but the first night of wild camping in the open in the pitch darkness often takes some getting used to, especially if you haven’t done it in a while.
I found myself lying awake until well after midnight before sleep finally found me. Of course, I woke up as the sun rose, so now I’m not only exhausted from yesterday’s trek but also tired from a lack of sleep.
The thin camping mattress was closer to a yoga mat and didn’t do much to protect me from the uneven ground of the forest. I felt like I was sleeping on every rock, stick and root imaginable.
My boots somehow got wet, even though I splurged on the more expensive, waterproof kind, which I now regret. I would have been better off wearing beat-up comfy Nike trainers, which now sit at home in my warm, dry bedroom.
Yesterday’s rain left the forest damp and wet, and every tree branch I brush lets a small river of rain droplets find their way past my neck and into my jacket.
Camping isn’t always fun and games, but despite the less-than-ideal conditions, I feel more alive than I’ve been in a while.
Being outside in the forest does that to you.
Finding our Way in the Wild
The bus had dropped us off in Braemar, around 58 miles west of Aberdeen in the Highlands, and we hadn’t planned much of the trip beyond there. One of my hiking companions had been wild camping in the area before, so we roughly followed their lead as we trudged further into the forest.
At some point, we decided to abandon the trails to find a more secluded place to spend the night where we wouldn’t be disturbed by fellow hikers and people walking their dogs in the early morning.
At some point, cell phone reception abandoned us, and we had to rely on the grainy off-line maps we’d downloaded in advance, with only a rough idea of how accurate the little blue location dot on the map actually was.
In most other places in the world, this would be quite worrying. However the area of the Cairngorms we were exploring is not actually that large, and coming across a town was a likely occurrence.
Still, I wouldn’t recommend going into a trip like this blind, so don’t take my optimism and naivety and decide that you can just wander around the forest in Scotland without worrying about safety. Bring a map and a compass and importantly – know how to use them.
The lack of a plan made this trip feel like a real adventure though, and not just another hike with a start and endpoint.
The goal of the trip wasn’t a destination, but instead, it was a feeling that helped us carry on and chase that sense of freedom we’d all come here to find.
Thoughts on Wild Camping in Scotland and the Right to Roam
I’d only ever been wild camping in Australia before this trip, and as you might imagine, that was a completely different experience.
Australia does not allow wild camping, or at least not in the same sense that Scotland does. In fact, it’s somewhat frowned upon there. You feel like you’re a fugitive on the run, constantly being chased and followed by someone trying to give you a hefty fine.
Scotland felt more like you’re returning home to nature, welcomed to a place you’d always belonged in – you just didn’t know it before.
The further we ventured into the forest, the more I felt like I was supposed to be there and become a part of the landscape. That might sound bizarre, especially if you imagine us in our neon-coloured Decathlon rain jackets, heavy hiking boots and colourful tents that stood out like a sore thumb in the moody forest. But it felt right.
Leaving the Woods Behind
After leaving the main footpath, we didn’t come across anyone for the entire next day until we’d looped around and found ourselves close to Braemar once more.
I’d never felt happier than the moment I laid eyes on the town pub. The Farquharsons Bar and Kitchen was not a luxurious establishment, but it might as well have been a Michelin-star restaurant when we stumbled in with our muddy boots and rain-covered jackets.
We were the only patrons and immediately proceeded to order anything and everything from the menu.
We’d mostly eaten bread, cheese, granola bars and apples in the past few days, as we had no room in our packs to store a gas stove or any cooking utensils. The Sunday Roast that followed was one of the best things I’d ever eaten. Of course, it was accompanied by a pint of Brewdog Punk IPA, the local craft beer of choice.
Exhausted but happy, we barely managed to catch the last bus back to civilisation in time. We’d only been gone for four days, but it might as well have been a lifetime.
On the way home, I found myself contemplating how lucky I was to be able to experience Scotland’s nature with such freedom.
No tourist crowds, no permits, no national park fees. It was truly as easy as stepping off a bus and wandering into the wild. I can only hope we all take care of nature and do our part to help it stay that way.
Author: Victoria Heinz
Victoria is a travel blogger and marketer from Germany. She spent four years living in Aberdeen before traveling full-time for a while and finally settling in Bali, Indonesia, where she now owns a marketing agency and runs several travel blogs including Guide your Travel and My Australia Trip.